I spent way too long staring at the holbein gouache color chart last night trying to decide which greens I actually need versus which ones I just want because the names sound cool. If you've ever looked at their full range, you know exactly what I'm talking about. It's a bit overwhelming at first glance. You've got eighty-four standard colors, plus the whole Irodori line, and every single one of them looks like a little jewel on the screen. But as any artist will tell you, what you see on a glowing monitor and what ends up on your paper can be two very different things.
Understanding how to read that chart is basically the secret to not wasting your money on redundant tubes. Holbein is a bit unique in the gouache world because they don't add "opacifiers" to their paint. Usually, gouache is just watercolor with extra chalk or white pigment added to make it opaque. Holbein does it differently—they just pack a massive amount of pigment into the tube. This makes their holbein gouache color chart especially interesting because you can see which colors are naturally transparent and which ones are "heavy hitters" that will cover up anything beneath them.
Cracking the Code of the Chart Symbols
When you first pull up the holbein gouache color chart, you'll notice a bunch of little symbols next to the swatches. It's not just there for decoration. Each little box or star tells you something vital about how that paint is going to behave under your brush. For starters, let's talk about lightfastness.
Most charts use a star system or a series of plus signs. If you see three stars or three pluses, that's the "gold standard." It means that color isn't going to fade into a ghost of itself when the sun hits it. If you're just practicing in a sketchbook that stays closed, you might not care as much. But if you're planning on hanging a piece in a sunny living room, you'll want to pay close attention to those ratings. Some of the most beautiful pinks and violets are notoriously "fugitive," meaning they vanish over time. The chart is your warning label.
Then there's the opacity rating. Usually, this is a little square. A filled-in black square means it's totally opaque. A half-filled one is semi-opaque, and an empty square is transparent. In the world of Holbein, even their "transparent" colors have a lot of body to them, but knowing the difference helps you layer properly. You don't want to try and highlight a dark area with a transparent blue; it just won't work.
Why Pigment Load Matters More Than the Name
It's easy to get sucked in by names like "Compose Blue" or "Opera Pink," but the holbein gouache color chart usually lists the pigment codes too (like PB29 for Ultramarine). If you're trying to build a professional-grade palette, looking at these codes is a game changer.
Sometimes two colors look almost identical on the chart, but one is a single pigment and the other is a "hue" made of three different things mixed together. Generally, single-pigment colors are better because they stay bright when you mix them with other colors. When you start mixing "convenience" colors (the ones that are already a mix of three pigments), you end up with mud pretty quickly.
Holbein is famous for its smooth, buttery consistency. Because there's no ox gall or other animal by-products in it, the paint doesn't have that "soapy" feel that some other brands do. When you look at the chart, you're looking at the pure potential of that pigment. It's why people who do illustration or architectural rendering swear by them—the colors are flat, matte, and incredibly vibrant.
Building a Starter Palette from the Chart
If you're looking at the holbein gouache color chart and feeling like you need all 84 tubes, take a deep breath. You don't. In fact, starting with too many can actually make it harder to learn how gouache works.
I always suggest starting with a "split primary" set. This means getting a warm and a cool version of each primary color. For reds, you might look at Flame Red (warm) and Primary Magenta (cool). For yellows, maybe Permanent Yellow Deep and Lemon Yellow. For blues, Ultramarine Deep and Turquoise Blue usually cover your bases.
Don't forget the white. You'll go through white faster than any other color on the holbein gouache color chart. Holbein offers a few different whites, but "Permanent White" is usually the way to go for mixing. It's opaque enough to tint your colors without making them look chalky. If you want something even more "heavy duty" for highlights, look for their "Titanium White."
The Magic of the Irodori Series
We can't talk about the holbein gouache color chart without mentioning the Irodori line. These are traditional Japanese colors, and they are honestly stunning. They're inspired by the four seasons, and the pigments are slightly different from the standard professional line. They have a bit more texture—not "gritty," but they feel more like traditional pigments used in ancient Japanese art.
The colors in the Irodori chart are more muted and earthy. Instead of neon brights, you get shades like "Antique Pine" or "Pale Coral." If your style leans more toward botanical illustration or atmospheric landscapes, these sets are worth their weight in gold. They offer a certain "mood" that you just can't quite get by mixing the standard bright primaries.
Making Your Own Swatch Chart
As great as the official holbein gouache color chart is, nothing beats making your own. Why? Because the paper you use matters. A printed chart is on slick, professional-grade printer paper. If you're painting on 300gsm cold press watercolor paper, the paint is going to sink in and look different.
When I get a new tube, the first thing I do is make a little "gradient" swatch. I start with the color at full strength (masstone) and then gradually add water to see how it thins out. Even though gouache is meant to be used opaque, Holbein's stuff thins down into beautiful, watercolor-like washes. Having your own hand-painted holbein gouache color chart in your studio is much more reliable than checking a PDF on your phone.
Plus, let's be honest, swatching is just relaxing. There's something deeply satisfying about seeing all those little squares of color lined up. It helps you memorize where your colors are and how they react when they're wet versus dry. Gouache notoriously changes color when it dries—darks usually dry lighter, and lights often dry darker. Your personal chart will show you exactly how much that shift happens.
Final Thoughts on Choosing Colors
At the end of the day, the holbein gouache color chart is a tool to help you express whatever is in your head. Don't feel pressured to buy the "best" colors that someone else recommends. If you love painting night scenes, maybe skip the bright yellows and stock up on Indanthrene Blue and Prussian Blue. If you're into portraits, you'll be spending a lot more time looking at the ochres and siennas.
Holbein has been around for a long time, and there's a reason they're a staple in so many studios. Their commitment to pigment quality means that whether you buy one tube or a set of twenty-four, you're getting something that's going to behave consistently. So, pull up that chart, take your time, and maybe start with a few favorites. You can always add more to your collection later—and trust me, once you start, it's hard to stop. There's always "just one more green" that looks like it belongs on your palette.